April 26, 2015...it seems that at the end of every year I am surprised at how quickly time has passed, but here in Kinshasa the pace has picked up even more.
I've had my first Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's, and Easter in the DRC, and while all were spent with new friends, acquaintances, and co-workers, there was little pomp and circumstance surrounding any of the holidays. The usual myriad of holiday invitations, festivities, and parties were replaced by but a few, and the festive and often overwhelming feel of holiday marketing and decorations was slim to none. However, the community of this Embassy was a bright spot that made these special times of year just that.
Certainly, I will remember the Christmas Eve service here in Kinshasa that ended much like that of my church back in North Hollywood with a candle light singing of Joy to the World; the Christmas Day potluck feast that rolled into an evening of card games; the New Year's Eve pleasantly spent dining with good friends and New Year's Day shared brunching with a great mix of Embassy colleagues.
They are all sweet memories of my time here in Kinshasa. All in all my experiences have been more good than bad, but I have to be truthful and admit adapting to the environment here has been more challenging than I expected. There are the expected emotional ties that are missed (my friends and family) and amenities (favorite restaurants, movie theaters, stores, shopping malls, customer service, etc.), but what took me most by surprise is the time warp.
Modernity is generally-speaking lacking here. The infrastructure is crude at best with unmaintained roads, buildings, and public transportation; utilities are unpredictable with electricity, water, and telecommunications frequently on the fritz. In addition to the economy being depressed, the people are depressed. Jobs are few and far between and most people have to find a way to live off of the informal market (selling fruits and vegetables, trinkets, umbrellas, windshield wipers, and you name it, alongside the road; shining shoes; transporting people via motorbike; washing cars; begging, etc.) The mindset here, particularly regarding the place of women in society, is delayed in comparison to where we're at in the United States. I realize it took the U.S. ample time to get to where we are presently, and there is a timetable for everything, but again, it's hard to go back in time when I've already lived the future.
The desperation here in Kinshasa makes it difficult to build relationships with many of the locals as ex-pats are rarely seen as more than wealthy outsiders who can be exploited for their money. To be fair, ex-pats including myself, are perpetuating that stereotype by paying the inflated prices at restaurants, grocery stores, and anywhere that gives us even the slightest taste of a "back home" experience. We also drive our "fancy" vehicles, take vacations, and live in housing that is not at all reflective of the lives and struggle of the average Congolese person. The division between cultures, although not insurmountable, is certainly significant which makes me cherish the few true friendships that I have been able to garner and maintain with my Congolese colleagues.
Some of you have shown interest in my extra-curriculars here, and honestly it's a relatively short list. As there are no malls or movie theaters and a very few museums, I frequently tend to go out to eat with friends. There are two or three favorite restaurants that are high on my list, and I've been here long enough that I don't even hesitate at paying $32 for a hamburger and fries or $17 for Chicken Tikka Masala and $8 for white rice. While it isn't reflective of my generally economical senses, it's not only my taste buds but also my sanity which is at stake.
Exercise plays a large role in my, rarely before work (The Embassy opens at 7:30 a.m.) and sometimes after work, routine. As I've mentioned before, I live right beside the "river loop" which is a popular location for runners, joggers, and walkers. I try to make it out several times a week, and from time to time, I partake in yoga at a co-worker's home on the weekend. I try to play tennis at least one time a week and sand volleyball once or twice a month. Unfortunately, I often don't get home before dark which eliminates most outdoor activities during the week, and by 6 p.m. it's dusk and 6:30 p.m. it is pitch black, and that is pretty much all year round.
My newest recreational investment was in a membership at the equestrian center. Paying to ride horse is a completely alien concept to me, and it goes against my Midwestern sensibilities. However, as mentioned earlier, when one's well-being is at stake, exceptions must be made. Riding is extremely relaxing for me, and the grounds of the equestrian center provide the illusion of being in the peaceful, verdant countryside, and those two elements combined leave me feeling internally and externally harmonious...until I get back in my vehicle and battle the inexplicable traffic shenanigans in Kinshasa!
Lest you think I kid about the importance of taking care of oneself mentally, physically, and spiritually, I would like to bring to your attention that in the first month or two that I arrived at post, people at the Embassy repeatedly asked me, "How are you settling in?'' That question was almost always followed up with, "You have to get out every two or three months, or you'll go crazy." Being new and naive and without a surplus of annual leave, I shrugged the warning off with a "thanks, I'm sure I'll be fine" attitude. That is until month six. At some point around the end of December beginning of January, I felt the twinge. It seems that most people here reach a point, everyone on on their own timeline, when some or all of the following things happen.
- Irrational feelings of impatience, road rage, anger
- Unexpected emotional outbursts
- Fatigue
- Reclusive behavior
- Increase in alcohol intake
- Longing for first world amenities
- Intense longing for fresh fruits and vegetables
I was a little late in planning my first mini-vacation, but it was indeed needed and incredibly restorative. After going through the holidays, the protests that shutdown the city for a couple days, and my first 8 months at post, a brief reprieve was exactly what I needed. Thank you Cape Town, South Africa! (Pictures to follow in my next post.) Now I can say that I have been to two places on the continent.
Thank you all for the love and support whether it be via e-mail, What's App, Skype, care packages, etc. I am loving this new career and lifestyle, but don't think that I've forgotten my family, friends, and acquaintances thousands of miles away. I miss you all and look forward to your updates and appreciate your nudges when it's been five months since my last blog update! My next update will be more of a pictorial blog to share what I've been up to in the past months.
Happy Spring. Happy end of rainy season (or dry season depending on where you are on the continent), and may you all find something in life that makes you truly happy.
Hi Tara! Love your news from the other continent. Looking forward to pix. XOXO
ReplyDeletePatricia